Once again the timing could not be any more appropriate. The entire world is captivated by the sensational US presidential elections and the devastating effects of the financial crisis are being felt from North America to East Asia and every region in between. Meanwhile, a regional conflict is brewing in Central Africa with the intensifying fighting between the military troops of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). The international community is once again distracted, passive, committed elsewhere or simply unwilling to take concrete actions.
In the process, innocent human lives are being affected at a disturbing rate – lives that increasingly seem to be taken for granted as constant media reports of war, AIDS, famine and sufferings in Africa have become all too familiar thus desensitizing viewers. According to official reports, the death toll amounts to 5.4 million people throughout the eastern region of DRC since 1998. “Never again, never again” was the rhetoric of the international community after the human tragedy in Rwanda yet nothing has changed except that today the same evils have resurged a few miles west in neighboring DRC.
Let us rewind to 1998. In the days following the bombings of US embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam, the first full-fledged regional war in Africa broke out in Eastern Congo – better known as the Second Congo War – involving 6 different nations (Uganda, Angola, Zimbabwe…just to name a few) with their troops fighting on Congolese soil. No one saw that one coming except the fighting factions. More recently, in December 2004, it was also during US elections fever that rebel general Laurent Nkunda broke away from the DRC army to form his National Congress for the Defense of the People (CNDP) and take over Bukavu, the capital of the eastern province of South Kivu. Today, just days before America goes to the polls, it is the same rebel general Nkunda – the self-proclaimed protector of Tutsis in DRC – who is closing in on the strategic town of Goma, the capital of North Kivu. A Tutsi of Congolese citizenship himself, Nkunda is receiving assistance of some sort from Kigali. Every time, the eyes of the world are focused on another major event.
Some may ask why Africa always waits for the international community – namely the West – to come to its rescue. Firstly, nations on the continent lack the resources and military might to secure their borders and defend themselves without support of some kind from their former colonial leaders. Secondly, it is not in the interest of Western nations for Africa to be on par with them in terms of military technology or to, at least, train and develop more autonomous forces. Thirdly, nations such as the United States, Great Britain, France and Belgium (only within the context of its colonial experience in Rwanda and DRC) are the most powerful in the world in terms of decision-making and renowned for spreading the gospel of democracy, peace and freedom to all corners of the planet. Three of the aforementioned nations are permanent members of the UN Security Council, the victors of World War II who have the crucial veto power. That should say it all. It is only fair for the West to come fix the problems in the region because, most of the time, they are the ones instigating them behind closed doors in the most sophisticated, untraceable methods that would cause accusations such as mine to be dismissed as groundless in the eyes of many. At any rate, these nations have the power and authority to intervene efficiently in the current crisis. They should play their role as leaders of the free world and execute their mission as eagerly as they did recently in Kosovo and in Georgia. Okay, okay, I am not naïve: I am well acquainted with the concept of national interest.
Not to say that African regimes are not to blame for all their troubles because, in fact, they are equally responsible for the torments they endure. DRC, being a prime example, has squandered many critical opportunities to unify the vast nation and draft sound policies that would yield long term dividends during those few periods when the country enjoyed relative calm and stability. The short-sightedness and get-rich-quick scheme of successive administrations have spoiled the future of the country in more ways than one. Nevertheless, under such conditions, it is an insurmountable task to prevent foreign meddling and influence on home affairs when corruption is rampant, national institutions are weak and members of the State are divided along ethnic lines. Basically, there are more than enough actors in this conflict to share the blame, both in Central Africa and in Western capitals.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Economic Boom, At What Cost
Part 1 of 3 in a series of reports on the politics and economy of DR Congo
It is the third largest country in Africa; the second largest copper reserve in the world after Chile (however the best kind in terms of quality with a 3.5 % pure copper content as opposed to just 0.5 % for the Chilean mineral); it holds some of the richest reserves of cobalt, zinc, coltan, diamonds and countless other precious stones and raw materials; and its natural geography is endowed with a comprehensive watercourse network that has the potential to provide enough hydroelectric power for the entire central region of the continent and beyond.
Yes, by now you know exactly which nation I am talking about. Despite these renowned facts and statistics, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) remains among the poorest and most unstable countries in Africa. Just as it has always been since independence (maybe much worse today), corruption is rampant and out-in-the-open at every single level of government while the lack of investments in basic infrastructure further deteriorates the already deplorable conditions of roads, power supplies, schools and hospitals. The plight of the Congolese people is best illustrated by their country’s regular appearances at the lowest rankings of the United Nations Human Development Index (HDI).
Above all, the never-ending armed conflict in the eastern provinces of the country is raging even as we speak and still claiming innocent civilian lives. It all began with Congo War I (1996-1997) during which Laurent Desire Kabila toppled Mobutu’s 32-year dictatorship with the help of mercenaries from Rwanda and Uganda. The ensuing Congo War II (1998-2003) – ignited by Kabila’s desperate attempts to oust the foreign forces who had been instrumental to his rise to power, forces determined to be rewarded with a share of Congo’s wealth – led to the death of more than 4 million people. This “genocide” is not discussed, publicized and marketed nearly as much as the Rwanda genocide of 1994 was and still is.
Without trivializing any catastrophe and getting caught up in legalistic definitions of the term genocide or arguing about numbers of casualties, both countries have experienced large scale human tragedy that cannot go unpunished. Therefore, it is only fair that the international community devotes the same amount of time, energy and financial resources to ensure that justice is served and that the affected communities recover from the atrocities as best as possible. Such efforts by the international community – in large part motivated by guilt for failing to act in 1994 – have yielded fruitful results in Rwanda; the small east African nation has made a remarkable turnaround in just 14 years and is far ahead of many other nations on the continent. Of course, just as the Rwandese have carried out so successfully, it is the full responsibility of the Congolese people alone to raise awareness globally about the sufferings they endured and continue to live through.
In spite of these dire prospects, the mining sector of the mineral rich province of Katanga in the southern territory of the country is witnessing fast growth in its activities due to the global rise in the price of raw materials witnessed in recent years (e.g. the price of copper went from US $500 per ton to US $8,000 per ton in the last ten years alone). The province of Katanga, which forms the Copper Belt together with northern regions of Zambia just across the border, continues to benefit from this favorable change in the global natural resources market by attracting a plethora of foreign mining companies in a fashion quite reminiscent of the Gold Rush. To date, DRC has 61 different mining contracts with a diverse group of foreign companies whose make-up reflects the fierce geopolitical rivalries between China and the West. Obviously, Katanga’s intention is to create a win-win situation for itself by pinning the two global centers of power and influence against one another.
Consequently, Katanga is on a steady path towards prosperity while the rest of the nation has yet to benefit from the so-called peace and democracy brought on by the last presidential elections of 2006 which kept the incumbent, Joseph Kabila (the son of Laurent Kabila), in power for another 5-year term. Lubumbashi, the affluent provincial capital, is a clear illustration of the widening gap that exists between Copper Land and the rest of the country. It is now known as the city that never sleeps; day and night truckloads of copper and cobalt are seen driving towards the Zambian border where the minerals are shipped to Dar es-Salaam, Tanzania before being sent off to their final destination in Asia. It seems that every month new businesses open up shop in town. Lushois (Lubumbashi natives or residents) are flabbergasted to suddenly have access to American fast food chains and Chinese consumer goods.
What's more, the long-awaited Cinq Chantiers (Five Reconstruction Projects) promised by Kabila was officially launched in April of this year with the construction of a 4-lane highway connecting Lubumbashi to the border post of Kasumbalesa, a small town located hundred kilometers from the provincial capital right on the Zambian border. That highway is expected to be extended well into Zambia within the next three years. All constructions are set to be completed by China Railway Engineering Corporation (CREC).
Nevertheless, in the midst of such euphoria one has to wonder if such growth is sustainable. With such economic surge comes a set of political, ecological and social problems that the provincial authorities have yet to address seriously. Among them, the historically contentious relationship between the rich province and the central authorities in Kinshasa is prone to resuscitate demons from the past. As some may recall, the copper province was the first region of the DRC to secede from the newly formed Lumumba government of 1960 mainly for fear that Kinshasa, the nation’s capital located miles away from Lubumbashi on the opposite west coast, would exercise too much control over its natural wealth. Even though Katanga later rejoined the union in January 1963, much of that fragile relationship has been ongoing; the mineral rich province frequently threatens to secede whenever it feels that the central government is slowing down its dynamic socio-economic advancement.
In the latest installment of this drama, Katanga is accusing Kinshasa of dragging its feet in repaying their duly 40% share of provincially generated revenue as stated in the constitution. Thus, the provincial authorities blame the suspension of many of their construction projects on Kinshasa. On the other hand, Kinshasa is treading carefully on both sides of the fence; it is trying to pull in the reins on a vibrant and increasingly influential province likely to challenge its authority all the while giving it enough leeway not to provoke it into secession.
At any rate, Congolese outside of Katanga are fed up with both the internal strife pinning Kinshasa against Lubumbashi and the constant secessionist threats made by the copper province. Out of pride and frustration with Katanga’s overbearing sense of superiority, the Congolese people have at times expressed their desire to see DRC separate permanently with the wealthy southern province saying: “if they want to go, let them go!” Yet, in reality, most understand that it would be mutually beneficial for DRC and Katanga to stay united if only the corrupt, irresponsible authorities of Kinshasa could put its house in order and work tirelessly to get the rest of the country caught up. It is easier said than done, of course.
Even though Katanga’s attitude is condescending in many respects, much of that sentiment is validated by their socioeconomic indicators. They do deserve a pat on the back for sustaining coherent governance and investing in basic infrastructure, things that cannot be said about Kinshasa. Katanga is known to have better schools, better roads and better hospitals. The mentality of its civil society and its living standard are drastically different than that of any other region of the country. As some Kinshasa dwellers unashamedly admitted to me once; “the Kinois (a Kinshasa native or resident) is a loud, obnoxious, vulgar and amoral man who loves women, beer, music and confrontation whereas le Lushois is a calm, civilized, ambitious and hardworking individual who keeps his city clean and seeks to create more growth opportunities in his community.” While this is evidently an exaggerated and offensive claim, it does help paint a broad picture of Katanga’s social and economic status.
On the ecological front, the effects of pollution on communities living in and around mining zones are well known as an increasing number of respiratory diseases are regularly being reported. Water contamination has led to cases of cholera and associated ailments that are currently wreaking havoc in the region. Now that provincial authorities have banned the exportation of minerals to Zambian refineries, many small-scale transformation units are popping up everywhere locally and even makeshift ovens in residents’ backyards are used instead of industrial refineries. Ecologists suspect that the owners of these local processing plants – Chinese, Indians and business entrepreneurs from the Gulf – have had to make “special contributions” to local authorities for them not to be hassled with green regulations when setting up their factories. Al Gore would be outraged.
The situation is not much better regarding the social ramifications of the mining boom. The arrival of multinationals has put an abrupt end to informal exploitation of mines on which thousands of families relied on for subsistence. The mining giants have ousted these low-skilled laborers by offering them a meager “voluntary leave package” (Ruashi Mining, a South African company, offered US $200 per family) and a warning not to return. As a result, numerous school going children have been sent back home indefinitely due to their parents’ inability to pay their fees. The unemployment rate is ceaselessly climbing as many workers of the enormous but now defunct State mining enterprise, Gécamines, are being laid off due to mismanagement and plundering at the top levels of the institution.
In spite of efforts made by multinationals to secure the mines with electrical barriers and patrols of armed guards, desperate men and children still make their way onto forbidden lands and conduct clandestine extractions sometimes with only the most basic of equipment such as shovels, chisels and sturdy plastic sacks (e.g. empty bags of rice or charcoal). Violence is slowly becoming a common occurrence. The local miners are defending themselves, fighting security guards and vandalizing the installations of multinationals. Sadly, many children perish on these dangerous expeditions. Their small body frames allow them to get through the narrow tunnels they dig underground more so then the adults can but some never come out alive as the tunnels cave in and the heavy pile of earth asphyxiates them. Such perilous endeavors are in part encouraged by small foreign enterprises that have yet to gain full access to some of the mines where informal activities are still thriving. Therefore, they exploit the deprived indigenous communities by flooding their markets with various consumer goods and offering up financial rewards in exchange for sacks of “sand.” Hence, open air cinemas featuring kung-fu movies, boutiques assorted with brand name clothing knock-offs and billboards ads written in French, English and Chinese have all become a common sight in Lubumbashi and the surrounding area.
A more in-depth analysis of the implications of the economic boom reveals that the future of Katanga is not as bright as it appears to be on the surface – at least not in the long term. Is there the political will to address these issues with sound policies? Does the province have the capacity to carry it out on its own or will it then collaborate with federal authorities in Kinshasa? Only time will provide answers to these queries. However, one thing is certain; both the provincial and federal authorities will have to play their role in ensuring that their institutions are built on patriotic and democratic foundations and in maintaining its attractiveness in the eyes of foreign investors while holding multinationals accountable for the activities they undertake on Congolese soil.
It is the third largest country in Africa; the second largest copper reserve in the world after Chile (however the best kind in terms of quality with a 3.5 % pure copper content as opposed to just 0.5 % for the Chilean mineral); it holds some of the richest reserves of cobalt, zinc, coltan, diamonds and countless other precious stones and raw materials; and its natural geography is endowed with a comprehensive watercourse network that has the potential to provide enough hydroelectric power for the entire central region of the continent and beyond.
Yes, by now you know exactly which nation I am talking about. Despite these renowned facts and statistics, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) remains among the poorest and most unstable countries in Africa. Just as it has always been since independence (maybe much worse today), corruption is rampant and out-in-the-open at every single level of government while the lack of investments in basic infrastructure further deteriorates the already deplorable conditions of roads, power supplies, schools and hospitals. The plight of the Congolese people is best illustrated by their country’s regular appearances at the lowest rankings of the United Nations Human Development Index (HDI).
Above all, the never-ending armed conflict in the eastern provinces of the country is raging even as we speak and still claiming innocent civilian lives. It all began with Congo War I (1996-1997) during which Laurent Desire Kabila toppled Mobutu’s 32-year dictatorship with the help of mercenaries from Rwanda and Uganda. The ensuing Congo War II (1998-2003) – ignited by Kabila’s desperate attempts to oust the foreign forces who had been instrumental to his rise to power, forces determined to be rewarded with a share of Congo’s wealth – led to the death of more than 4 million people. This “genocide” is not discussed, publicized and marketed nearly as much as the Rwanda genocide of 1994 was and still is.
Without trivializing any catastrophe and getting caught up in legalistic definitions of the term genocide or arguing about numbers of casualties, both countries have experienced large scale human tragedy that cannot go unpunished. Therefore, it is only fair that the international community devotes the same amount of time, energy and financial resources to ensure that justice is served and that the affected communities recover from the atrocities as best as possible. Such efforts by the international community – in large part motivated by guilt for failing to act in 1994 – have yielded fruitful results in Rwanda; the small east African nation has made a remarkable turnaround in just 14 years and is far ahead of many other nations on the continent. Of course, just as the Rwandese have carried out so successfully, it is the full responsibility of the Congolese people alone to raise awareness globally about the sufferings they endured and continue to live through.
In spite of these dire prospects, the mining sector of the mineral rich province of Katanga in the southern territory of the country is witnessing fast growth in its activities due to the global rise in the price of raw materials witnessed in recent years (e.g. the price of copper went from US $500 per ton to US $8,000 per ton in the last ten years alone). The province of Katanga, which forms the Copper Belt together with northern regions of Zambia just across the border, continues to benefit from this favorable change in the global natural resources market by attracting a plethora of foreign mining companies in a fashion quite reminiscent of the Gold Rush. To date, DRC has 61 different mining contracts with a diverse group of foreign companies whose make-up reflects the fierce geopolitical rivalries between China and the West. Obviously, Katanga’s intention is to create a win-win situation for itself by pinning the two global centers of power and influence against one another.
Consequently, Katanga is on a steady path towards prosperity while the rest of the nation has yet to benefit from the so-called peace and democracy brought on by the last presidential elections of 2006 which kept the incumbent, Joseph Kabila (the son of Laurent Kabila), in power for another 5-year term. Lubumbashi, the affluent provincial capital, is a clear illustration of the widening gap that exists between Copper Land and the rest of the country. It is now known as the city that never sleeps; day and night truckloads of copper and cobalt are seen driving towards the Zambian border where the minerals are shipped to Dar es-Salaam, Tanzania before being sent off to their final destination in Asia. It seems that every month new businesses open up shop in town. Lushois (Lubumbashi natives or residents) are flabbergasted to suddenly have access to American fast food chains and Chinese consumer goods.
What's more, the long-awaited Cinq Chantiers (Five Reconstruction Projects) promised by Kabila was officially launched in April of this year with the construction of a 4-lane highway connecting Lubumbashi to the border post of Kasumbalesa, a small town located hundred kilometers from the provincial capital right on the Zambian border. That highway is expected to be extended well into Zambia within the next three years. All constructions are set to be completed by China Railway Engineering Corporation (CREC).
Nevertheless, in the midst of such euphoria one has to wonder if such growth is sustainable. With such economic surge comes a set of political, ecological and social problems that the provincial authorities have yet to address seriously. Among them, the historically contentious relationship between the rich province and the central authorities in Kinshasa is prone to resuscitate demons from the past. As some may recall, the copper province was the first region of the DRC to secede from the newly formed Lumumba government of 1960 mainly for fear that Kinshasa, the nation’s capital located miles away from Lubumbashi on the opposite west coast, would exercise too much control over its natural wealth. Even though Katanga later rejoined the union in January 1963, much of that fragile relationship has been ongoing; the mineral rich province frequently threatens to secede whenever it feels that the central government is slowing down its dynamic socio-economic advancement.
In the latest installment of this drama, Katanga is accusing Kinshasa of dragging its feet in repaying their duly 40% share of provincially generated revenue as stated in the constitution. Thus, the provincial authorities blame the suspension of many of their construction projects on Kinshasa. On the other hand, Kinshasa is treading carefully on both sides of the fence; it is trying to pull in the reins on a vibrant and increasingly influential province likely to challenge its authority all the while giving it enough leeway not to provoke it into secession.
At any rate, Congolese outside of Katanga are fed up with both the internal strife pinning Kinshasa against Lubumbashi and the constant secessionist threats made by the copper province. Out of pride and frustration with Katanga’s overbearing sense of superiority, the Congolese people have at times expressed their desire to see DRC separate permanently with the wealthy southern province saying: “if they want to go, let them go!” Yet, in reality, most understand that it would be mutually beneficial for DRC and Katanga to stay united if only the corrupt, irresponsible authorities of Kinshasa could put its house in order and work tirelessly to get the rest of the country caught up. It is easier said than done, of course.
Even though Katanga’s attitude is condescending in many respects, much of that sentiment is validated by their socioeconomic indicators. They do deserve a pat on the back for sustaining coherent governance and investing in basic infrastructure, things that cannot be said about Kinshasa. Katanga is known to have better schools, better roads and better hospitals. The mentality of its civil society and its living standard are drastically different than that of any other region of the country. As some Kinshasa dwellers unashamedly admitted to me once; “the Kinois (a Kinshasa native or resident) is a loud, obnoxious, vulgar and amoral man who loves women, beer, music and confrontation whereas le Lushois is a calm, civilized, ambitious and hardworking individual who keeps his city clean and seeks to create more growth opportunities in his community.” While this is evidently an exaggerated and offensive claim, it does help paint a broad picture of Katanga’s social and economic status.
On the ecological front, the effects of pollution on communities living in and around mining zones are well known as an increasing number of respiratory diseases are regularly being reported. Water contamination has led to cases of cholera and associated ailments that are currently wreaking havoc in the region. Now that provincial authorities have banned the exportation of minerals to Zambian refineries, many small-scale transformation units are popping up everywhere locally and even makeshift ovens in residents’ backyards are used instead of industrial refineries. Ecologists suspect that the owners of these local processing plants – Chinese, Indians and business entrepreneurs from the Gulf – have had to make “special contributions” to local authorities for them not to be hassled with green regulations when setting up their factories. Al Gore would be outraged.
The situation is not much better regarding the social ramifications of the mining boom. The arrival of multinationals has put an abrupt end to informal exploitation of mines on which thousands of families relied on for subsistence. The mining giants have ousted these low-skilled laborers by offering them a meager “voluntary leave package” (Ruashi Mining, a South African company, offered US $200 per family) and a warning not to return. As a result, numerous school going children have been sent back home indefinitely due to their parents’ inability to pay their fees. The unemployment rate is ceaselessly climbing as many workers of the enormous but now defunct State mining enterprise, Gécamines, are being laid off due to mismanagement and plundering at the top levels of the institution.
In spite of efforts made by multinationals to secure the mines with electrical barriers and patrols of armed guards, desperate men and children still make their way onto forbidden lands and conduct clandestine extractions sometimes with only the most basic of equipment such as shovels, chisels and sturdy plastic sacks (e.g. empty bags of rice or charcoal). Violence is slowly becoming a common occurrence. The local miners are defending themselves, fighting security guards and vandalizing the installations of multinationals. Sadly, many children perish on these dangerous expeditions. Their small body frames allow them to get through the narrow tunnels they dig underground more so then the adults can but some never come out alive as the tunnels cave in and the heavy pile of earth asphyxiates them. Such perilous endeavors are in part encouraged by small foreign enterprises that have yet to gain full access to some of the mines where informal activities are still thriving. Therefore, they exploit the deprived indigenous communities by flooding their markets with various consumer goods and offering up financial rewards in exchange for sacks of “sand.” Hence, open air cinemas featuring kung-fu movies, boutiques assorted with brand name clothing knock-offs and billboards ads written in French, English and Chinese have all become a common sight in Lubumbashi and the surrounding area.
A more in-depth analysis of the implications of the economic boom reveals that the future of Katanga is not as bright as it appears to be on the surface – at least not in the long term. Is there the political will to address these issues with sound policies? Does the province have the capacity to carry it out on its own or will it then collaborate with federal authorities in Kinshasa? Only time will provide answers to these queries. However, one thing is certain; both the provincial and federal authorities will have to play their role in ensuring that their institutions are built on patriotic and democratic foundations and in maintaining its attractiveness in the eyes of foreign investors while holding multinationals accountable for the activities they undertake on Congolese soil.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
On the back of a Bakkie
It is about 12:45pm on a very hot and sunny Sunday afternoon in Namibia. I am lounging at the back of a moving vehicle on my way to Swakopmund for a week long work assignment. We left Grootfontein this morning just before 9 o’clock. It is about 400 km to the touristy town on the Atlantic Ocean. My colleagues agreed to do most of the driving on the way down; I am bracing myself to take the wheel for most of the trip back up north.
They are both sitting in the front cabin, enjoying the air conditioning, while I am sitting inside the covered flat bed of the bakkie (pick-up truck). It is not bad at all. I cracked open a few windows to get some of that soothing breeze. It is actually a lot of fun. I cannot remember the last time I rode at the back of a pick-up truck. While it is not a very common means of transportation (as far as loading people and not just goods and merchandise) in most urban dwellings of the Western world, it is quite an ordinary thing to do here.
I am fortunate to be sitting comfortably by myself because I have seen bakkies of the exact same size crammed with no less than 12 people with their luggage and merchandises. People would rather buy a bakkie first before thinking about getting a 4-door sedan just because they live in a predominantly farming, blue-collar society.
They can do a lot of work on their own with a bakkie (e.g. construction work, moving furniture, transportation of produce from farm to market, mobility for traditionally large number of family members and relatives).
We are heading to the Community Skills Development Centre to review and update the content of their training programmes and prepare the budget for next year, among other things. It is always a special treat for me to get on the road because I get to witness the beautiful natural landscape this country has to offer and the surprisingly well-integrated physical infrastructure. After a quick pit stop at the Shell service station in Otjiwarongo, we drove 70 km into Erongo region where we passed through a natural land conservancy. The views are simply breathtaking: the dry, flat terrain is embellished by rocky hills and mountains in the distance. At any given time you might spot a herd of cows, goats, kudoos (of the deer and antelope family) and even donkeys. It is quite unreal; being here and witnessing this geography is truly a blessing.
They are both sitting in the front cabin, enjoying the air conditioning, while I am sitting inside the covered flat bed of the bakkie (pick-up truck). It is not bad at all. I cracked open a few windows to get some of that soothing breeze. It is actually a lot of fun. I cannot remember the last time I rode at the back of a pick-up truck. While it is not a very common means of transportation (as far as loading people and not just goods and merchandise) in most urban dwellings of the Western world, it is quite an ordinary thing to do here.
I am fortunate to be sitting comfortably by myself because I have seen bakkies of the exact same size crammed with no less than 12 people with their luggage and merchandises. People would rather buy a bakkie first before thinking about getting a 4-door sedan just because they live in a predominantly farming, blue-collar society.
They can do a lot of work on their own with a bakkie (e.g. construction work, moving furniture, transportation of produce from farm to market, mobility for traditionally large number of family members and relatives).
We are heading to the Community Skills Development Centre to review and update the content of their training programmes and prepare the budget for next year, among other things. It is always a special treat for me to get on the road because I get to witness the beautiful natural landscape this country has to offer and the surprisingly well-integrated physical infrastructure. After a quick pit stop at the Shell service station in Otjiwarongo, we drove 70 km into Erongo region where we passed through a natural land conservancy. The views are simply breathtaking: the dry, flat terrain is embellished by rocky hills and mountains in the distance. At any given time you might spot a herd of cows, goats, kudoos (of the deer and antelope family) and even donkeys. It is quite unreal; being here and witnessing this geography is truly a blessing.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Let's Heal our Wounds Together
I have been in Grootfontein, Namibia for just over 2 months now and I have yet to establish some kind of social life for myself. It is quite challenging to find one here due to the fact that it is a small farming community with limited attractions or activities for people to partake in. Aside from shibins (makeshift bars, pronounced she-beans), there is not much else. People drink heavily on their spare time. There is no movie theatre and neither is there a common hangout spot for young people. With no jobs and only two high schools in town, the repercussions on the youth are harmful.
On a personal level, when boredom really gets the best of me after work or on weekends, I rent out some movies from Blockbuster – which is in no way affiliated to the North American franchise (trademark infringement maybe?). Besides, I can only read so much. Still, I do not intend to return there anytime soon simply because I feel like I am missing out on the unique opportunity I have to be here. I did not come to this country only to lock myself indoors and watch American movies. I could have stayed back home and done the same thing.
Nevertheless, Grootfontein is a tough place to adjust to socially. My interaction with people here is a bit “tricky”, if I may say for lack of a better term. I am a black man from Canada and my English is too American according to them and not enough Namibian or even British, which they are more accustomed to due to Great Britain’s colonial experience throughout this region of the continent. Adding the fact that I do not speak Afrikaans, an export of early Dutch settlers in southern Africa dating back to the 1600s, further puts me at a disadvantage. I must admit, though, I was surprised to find that blacks are fluent in Afrikaans more so than in English. I imagine it is because English was made the official language only at independence in 1990.
Hence, I find myself a bit stranded in the middle between blacks and whites as I continually get those inquisitive stares as I move about town. Blacks are apprehensive about me, quickly dismissing me as a rich African American whereas whites (commonly referred to as Afrikaners or Boers, although I dislike the latter term for its negative connotation) tend to be a bit cold. I find that they are not the most outgoing people. They tend to keep to themselves. As a matter of fact, race relations are the single most uncomfortable issue I have had to deal with since my arrival in this country. I cannot speak of racial tension per say but more like a subtle, lingering uneasiness that I quickly discerned after just a couple days in Namibia; Namibians of different races may interact with one another for business and work but rarely, if not ever, do they mix in socially.
On a side note, I hope to share more about Namibia’s rich and intricate history. For those of you who feel a bit lost or confused with the racial diversity and various languages of this nation; you are not alone. A discussion of the strong European influence in Namibia – which started with the Dutch then the Germans – and the long, brutal occupation by the Republic of South Africa (RSA) cannot possibly be covered in one blog entry. Also, I understand that race can be a sensitive topic to discuss and words such as “blacks” and “whites” are in essence meaningless. I am using them simply for descriptive clarity. If you do have another terminology you think would work better, please share them with me, I am open to suggestions. It further gets messy when words like “coloureds” or even “basters” – which I find to be tremendously distasteful – are thrown around casually in reference to individuals who were born from an interracial union (most commonly between a black person and a white person). I guess that is the astonishing feature of cultures and social norms; that which is totally acceptable in one setting is absolutely intolerable in a different one.
Nevertheless, not all hope is lost for Namibia and the southern region of the continent as a whole. There have been some remarkable breakthroughs since the official end of Apartheid. Namibia’s independence in 1990, Nelson Mandela’s liberation, RSA’s independence in 1994 and the Truth & Reconciliation Commission all give testimony to the self-less effort and sacrifice the citizens of this region have had to make. There is plenty to be proud about. Though, sometimes it is only after you reach your destination that you realize how much farther you have to travel.
Not trying to spoil the party but I must confess that the image of unity in this region that has been strongly promoted to the rest of the world in recent years is not quite true, at least not yet. I have great respect and I applaud the State, especially that of RSA, for their national unification policies and programs. The continent of Africa would move forward a lot faster if more nations endorsed and worked tirelessly to implement similar policies to address a major plague ravaging the continent: ethnic strife. Yet, I would not want you to be disillusioned like I was. I have been very excited about coming to the region. After all, RSA and Namibia are among the most developed nations on the continent. Besides, RSA has developed a favorable reputation globally as of late, especially now that they are hosting the next FIFA World Cup in 2010. With all that excitement mounting, I was sure to come to an industrialized, prosperous Africa where blacks, whites and coloureds are one (One spirit, One Africa is the slogan of the World Cup campaign). However, this is not the case. There is still more work and time required before that kind of harmony can prevail. The recent xenophobic riots in Johannesburg, mainly targeting Zimbabweans who have fled Mugabe’s regime, offer just one example of the tension that lies beneath the surface.
Yes, Apartheid is over. The police are not likely to release their attack dogs on the population again or burn down the townships like they used to. But the leftover effects will not disappear over night. Former Apartheid societies are currently going through a phase as equally challenging as the liberation movement itself: healing time. And if other African nations, who attained self-rule around the 1960s, are just now beginning to recover from the after-effects of colonialism then we should be fair and patient with southern Africa. The wounds are still too fresh.
This whole experience should also serve as a clear reminder to all of us that Africa is far from being this homogenous landmass where people, religion, history, geography, values and traditions are the same throughout. It is not. I cannot begin to count the number of people who shared wonderful stories about their time on the continent but failed to specify the country they just visited. You hear statements such as ‘we are sending money, clothes and food to our church orphanage in Africa’ or again, ‘I went on a safari tour in Africa,’ but where in Africa? Is your church orphanage in Swaziland, Chad, or Madagascar? Was the safari tour in RSA, Zambia or Kenya? If we make the effort to be more specific and talk of being in France when visiting Le Musée du Louvre or being in Brazil when visiting Cristo Redentor, then we should make the same effort when talking about the African continent. Basically, for me to say that Africa is rich in diversity is an understatement. Take the Congo-DRC as a prime example; there are about 200 different ethnic groups (and their languages) still struggling with the concept of nationhood within the same borders carved out by the colonial authorities at the Berlin Conference of 1885. If it is any indication, the uneasy atmosphere I have been struggling with here in Grootfontein is not an issue in Cote d’Ivoire where I lived for 8 years. Different culture. Different history. Different country.
Let me end with this thought. As mentioned above, the image of unity that has been strongly promoted to the rest of the world in recent years is not quite accurate, at least not yet. Let’s give it some time.
On a personal level, when boredom really gets the best of me after work or on weekends, I rent out some movies from Blockbuster – which is in no way affiliated to the North American franchise (trademark infringement maybe?). Besides, I can only read so much. Still, I do not intend to return there anytime soon simply because I feel like I am missing out on the unique opportunity I have to be here. I did not come to this country only to lock myself indoors and watch American movies. I could have stayed back home and done the same thing.
Nevertheless, Grootfontein is a tough place to adjust to socially. My interaction with people here is a bit “tricky”, if I may say for lack of a better term. I am a black man from Canada and my English is too American according to them and not enough Namibian or even British, which they are more accustomed to due to Great Britain’s colonial experience throughout this region of the continent. Adding the fact that I do not speak Afrikaans, an export of early Dutch settlers in southern Africa dating back to the 1600s, further puts me at a disadvantage. I must admit, though, I was surprised to find that blacks are fluent in Afrikaans more so than in English. I imagine it is because English was made the official language only at independence in 1990.
Hence, I find myself a bit stranded in the middle between blacks and whites as I continually get those inquisitive stares as I move about town. Blacks are apprehensive about me, quickly dismissing me as a rich African American whereas whites (commonly referred to as Afrikaners or Boers, although I dislike the latter term for its negative connotation) tend to be a bit cold. I find that they are not the most outgoing people. They tend to keep to themselves. As a matter of fact, race relations are the single most uncomfortable issue I have had to deal with since my arrival in this country. I cannot speak of racial tension per say but more like a subtle, lingering uneasiness that I quickly discerned after just a couple days in Namibia; Namibians of different races may interact with one another for business and work but rarely, if not ever, do they mix in socially.
On a side note, I hope to share more about Namibia’s rich and intricate history. For those of you who feel a bit lost or confused with the racial diversity and various languages of this nation; you are not alone. A discussion of the strong European influence in Namibia – which started with the Dutch then the Germans – and the long, brutal occupation by the Republic of South Africa (RSA) cannot possibly be covered in one blog entry. Also, I understand that race can be a sensitive topic to discuss and words such as “blacks” and “whites” are in essence meaningless. I am using them simply for descriptive clarity. If you do have another terminology you think would work better, please share them with me, I am open to suggestions. It further gets messy when words like “coloureds” or even “basters” – which I find to be tremendously distasteful – are thrown around casually in reference to individuals who were born from an interracial union (most commonly between a black person and a white person). I guess that is the astonishing feature of cultures and social norms; that which is totally acceptable in one setting is absolutely intolerable in a different one.
Nevertheless, not all hope is lost for Namibia and the southern region of the continent as a whole. There have been some remarkable breakthroughs since the official end of Apartheid. Namibia’s independence in 1990, Nelson Mandela’s liberation, RSA’s independence in 1994 and the Truth & Reconciliation Commission all give testimony to the self-less effort and sacrifice the citizens of this region have had to make. There is plenty to be proud about. Though, sometimes it is only after you reach your destination that you realize how much farther you have to travel.
Not trying to spoil the party but I must confess that the image of unity in this region that has been strongly promoted to the rest of the world in recent years is not quite true, at least not yet. I have great respect and I applaud the State, especially that of RSA, for their national unification policies and programs. The continent of Africa would move forward a lot faster if more nations endorsed and worked tirelessly to implement similar policies to address a major plague ravaging the continent: ethnic strife. Yet, I would not want you to be disillusioned like I was. I have been very excited about coming to the region. After all, RSA and Namibia are among the most developed nations on the continent. Besides, RSA has developed a favorable reputation globally as of late, especially now that they are hosting the next FIFA World Cup in 2010. With all that excitement mounting, I was sure to come to an industrialized, prosperous Africa where blacks, whites and coloureds are one (One spirit, One Africa is the slogan of the World Cup campaign). However, this is not the case. There is still more work and time required before that kind of harmony can prevail. The recent xenophobic riots in Johannesburg, mainly targeting Zimbabweans who have fled Mugabe’s regime, offer just one example of the tension that lies beneath the surface.
Yes, Apartheid is over. The police are not likely to release their attack dogs on the population again or burn down the townships like they used to. But the leftover effects will not disappear over night. Former Apartheid societies are currently going through a phase as equally challenging as the liberation movement itself: healing time. And if other African nations, who attained self-rule around the 1960s, are just now beginning to recover from the after-effects of colonialism then we should be fair and patient with southern Africa. The wounds are still too fresh.
This whole experience should also serve as a clear reminder to all of us that Africa is far from being this homogenous landmass where people, religion, history, geography, values and traditions are the same throughout. It is not. I cannot begin to count the number of people who shared wonderful stories about their time on the continent but failed to specify the country they just visited. You hear statements such as ‘we are sending money, clothes and food to our church orphanage in Africa’ or again, ‘I went on a safari tour in Africa,’ but where in Africa? Is your church orphanage in Swaziland, Chad, or Madagascar? Was the safari tour in RSA, Zambia or Kenya? If we make the effort to be more specific and talk of being in France when visiting Le Musée du Louvre or being in Brazil when visiting Cristo Redentor, then we should make the same effort when talking about the African continent. Basically, for me to say that Africa is rich in diversity is an understatement. Take the Congo-DRC as a prime example; there are about 200 different ethnic groups (and their languages) still struggling with the concept of nationhood within the same borders carved out by the colonial authorities at the Berlin Conference of 1885. If it is any indication, the uneasy atmosphere I have been struggling with here in Grootfontein is not an issue in Cote d’Ivoire where I lived for 8 years. Different culture. Different history. Different country.
Let me end with this thought. As mentioned above, the image of unity that has been strongly promoted to the rest of the world in recent years is not quite accurate, at least not yet. Let’s give it some time.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
From Dark to Bright Continent
For those of you who read my very first post, you might have noticed that I recently changed the title of this blog from Dark Continent to Bright Continent. Why the change? I initially selected Dark Continent for two reasons. One was to specify that my work will cover only the vast portion of the African continent south of the Sahara desert, an area I am more familiar with, sometimes called “black” Africa as a way to distinguish it from the Arab north. Secondly, I wanted to reverse the negative connotation associated with the term “dark” continent over the years by publishing brighter, more encouraging stories from the continent of Africa. The mainstream media along with literature from writers such as Joseph Conrad and Henry Morton Stanley continue to reinforce the wild, primitive and exotic image of Africa. Hence, I purposefully chose the term “dark” continent and intended to counterbalance the negative view of Africa with “bright” stories of hope and development – stories the media does not cover nearly as much. I basically want to say through this blog that while war, famine and diseases are ravaging the continent, there is a flipside to all of that; it is only half of the story. The other half deals with real people, real families and individuals who work hard and dream big just like the rest of us in the developed world.
It is after an email exchange with one of my mentors whom I regard in high esteem that I decided to adopt the name Bright Continent altogether. Africa has been lagging behind the rest of the world for far too long. We have hit rock bottom and at this point things cannot get any worse. Hence, I am convinced that we can only go up from here and eventually we will begin to hear of more “bright” stories emerging from this rich and beautiful continent.
It is after an email exchange with one of my mentors whom I regard in high esteem that I decided to adopt the name Bright Continent altogether. Africa has been lagging behind the rest of the world for far too long. We have hit rock bottom and at this point things cannot get any worse. Hence, I am convinced that we can only go up from here and eventually we will begin to hear of more “bright” stories emerging from this rich and beautiful continent.
Happy Birthday Mr. President!
It sounds like Marilyn Monroe serenading President Kennedy in the early 1960s but far from that, it is actually Prime Minister Nahas Angula singing happy birthday out loud on the airport runway as Namibian President, Hifikepunye Pohamba, was disembarking his plane. What a sight! I must admit, I was pleasantly surprised to see these two prominent leaders smile and have fun for a change. Politicians in Africa tend to take themselves a bit too seriously if you ask me; rarely smiling and always keeping a stern facial expression. The two had a warm embrace and exchanged a few pleasantries in front of the television cameras. Angula teased him about his longevity saying that he was “only 73 years young.” I joined the Prime Minister in wishing the President a happy birthday through a text message I sent to The Namibian message board. Regardless of whether he reads them or not, I thought it was pretty cool that they would put it in the newspaper. I immediately wondered if a major newspaper would do that for George Bush (definitely not The New York Times) or Stephen Harper.
It was the very first report on the ever popular 8 o’clock news on NBC. Yes, I know exactly what you are thinking right now but let me tell you, I fell for it as well when I first arrived in the country. I was so thrilled when told that I could get NBC without paying for cable but only with the help of a regular TV antenna. Awesome! I am thinking live coverage from the Beijing Olympics, my favorite show Law & Order SVU and the Nightly News with the charismatic Brian Williams. I quickly found out it was not the NBC with the multicolored peacock fan logo but rather the Namibian Broadcasting Company. Although I get the highlights from the Olympics 2 days after they actually occurred and the news report is not quite on par with Brian Williams, NBC is doing just fine by me. The daily 8 o’clock news in English, which captivates the whole nation and stops everything else, provides me with an in-depth look into Namibian society, politics and economy. Now this is one example of the many embarrassing moments one can face when introduced to new surroundings, moments that are better kept private. I am sharing just this one hoping that it will remain between us and spare you from experiencing your own.
It was the very first report on the ever popular 8 o’clock news on NBC. Yes, I know exactly what you are thinking right now but let me tell you, I fell for it as well when I first arrived in the country. I was so thrilled when told that I could get NBC without paying for cable but only with the help of a regular TV antenna. Awesome! I am thinking live coverage from the Beijing Olympics, my favorite show Law & Order SVU and the Nightly News with the charismatic Brian Williams. I quickly found out it was not the NBC with the multicolored peacock fan logo but rather the Namibian Broadcasting Company. Although I get the highlights from the Olympics 2 days after they actually occurred and the news report is not quite on par with Brian Williams, NBC is doing just fine by me. The daily 8 o’clock news in English, which captivates the whole nation and stops everything else, provides me with an in-depth look into Namibian society, politics and economy. Now this is one example of the many embarrassing moments one can face when introduced to new surroundings, moments that are better kept private. I am sharing just this one hoping that it will remain between us and spare you from experiencing your own.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Tate Nujoma is stalking me
Tate (pronounced tah-tay) is an Ovambo term meaning father; it is a sign of respect to elders in society. In the very same way, Meme (pronounced may-may) means mama or mother. It emerges from the core African values of respect and family unity that you will find almost anywhere on the continent. It is for that reason that I call my dad’s friends and relatives Papa Richard or Papa Kabuya – depending on their first or last name – and Mama Rebecca or Mama Mabiala for my mother’s relations.
Nujoma (pronounced noo-yo-mah) is the name of Namibia’s founding father: His Excellency Dr. Samuel (Sam) Shafiishuna Nujoma. And no, the double “i” in his first name is not a typo. He was born May 12, 1929 in Ovamboland, the stronghold of the liberation movement. The Ovambo region played such a monumental role in Namibia’s history that it deserves a separate blog entry entirely dedicated to its past, present and future. Dr. Sam Nujoma founded the Ovambo People Organisation (OPO) in 1957 which was renamed South West Africa People’s Organisation (SWAPO) shortly after. After decades of struggle, SWAPO led Namibia to independence from the brutal regime of the Republic of South Africa (RSA) in 1990. As of today, Dr. Sam Nujoma is still the head of the ruling SWAPO party although no longer president of the republic.
Nevertheless, from the time I arrived in Namibia, Tate Nujoma and current president, His Excellency Hifikepunye Pohamba (it took a week to get the correct pronunciation, his portrait just above), have been following me everywhere I go. In every public and private office I have been to, they are right there in the main lobby welcoming me with smiles on their faces. I am sure that by now you know that I am only being facetious. Nevertheless, there is actually an existing law in the books stating that every government office must have both the current president’s and the founding father’s photo portraits hanging on their walls. It even specifies that Dr. Nujoma’s portrait should hang a few centimeters below President Pohamba to distinguish between former and current president. The law applies only to public office but it seems the private sector has followed suit voluntarily, or did they? One thing is for sure, Dr. Nujoma and President Pohamba welcome me at my office every morning as I walk in.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
A Weekend in Tsumeb !!!
Last weekend was the first time that I ventured out of town on my own. I desperately needed to rediscover my independence. Please do not get me wrong, I am truly blessed to have the colleagues and support unit that I have around me here in Namibia. From the time that I landed in Windhoek (the nation’s capital) on June 27th, they took me in as one of their own. From showing me around town, taking me shopping for personal items, hooking me up with a cell, and filling out all the administrative forms (visa extension, vehicle authorization, emergency contact information, etc.), they have made my rather abrupt transition from Toronto to Grootfontein a lot smoother than it should have been. Nevertheless, it was refreshing to once again go somewhere on my own, meet new people, and find my own transportation instead of asking for a ride. I hate being an inconvenience to anyone.
When I found out that I was offered this 6-month work contract in Namibia, I told myself that I would exhaust every opportunity presented to me to immerse myself in the local culture. I do not know whether I will ever come back to this beautiful country so I might as well make the most out of this experience. As some of you already know, Namibia is a very young nation relative to other nations on the continent (Namibia became independent from South Africa only in 1990 whereas most African countries attained self-rule around 1960) with a recent, painful history of Apartheid. Having said that, my personal objective, aside from my professional one, is to engage in countless conversations with the rich, poor, blacks, whites, coloreds, foreigners, town dwellers, location dwellers (similar to townships in South Africa or even favelas-style slums in worst cases) in order to get a fair balance of viewpoints and in turn devise my own opinion of this sophisticated society. Now this is no easy feat in just 5 months but I am going to try anyways.
I cannot possibly accomplish this goal of mine by only interacting within my work environment. Hence, I took off on my own with cash in my pocket, a cell phone for emergencies and a change of clothes for a weekend in Tsumeb, a more happening town 60 km from Grootfontein where I live and work. My trip got off to a great start as I met one cool taxi driver; the most famous person in Grootfontein according to himself, his name is Fish. He drives a stylish silver 2006 Volkswagen with a pretty mean sound system. The base was so loud I thought I was going to skip a heartbeat. For some reason Fish never thought about turning down the volume during our long conversation; we yelled over the beat the whole way down to Tsumeb. For a split second I forgot that I was in Namibia because Fish played the latest tunes any young person my age in North America would listen to in their car; from Kanye West, Akon and Lil’ Wayne to Alicia Keys, Rihanna, Chris Brown and Coldplay. He had it all, even songs I had never heard before, talk about American soft power.
When I found out that I was offered this 6-month work contract in Namibia, I told myself that I would exhaust every opportunity presented to me to immerse myself in the local culture. I do not know whether I will ever come back to this beautiful country so I might as well make the most out of this experience. As some of you already know, Namibia is a very young nation relative to other nations on the continent (Namibia became independent from South Africa only in 1990 whereas most African countries attained self-rule around 1960) with a recent, painful history of Apartheid. Having said that, my personal objective, aside from my professional one, is to engage in countless conversations with the rich, poor, blacks, whites, coloreds, foreigners, town dwellers, location dwellers (similar to townships in South Africa or even favelas-style slums in worst cases) in order to get a fair balance of viewpoints and in turn devise my own opinion of this sophisticated society. Now this is no easy feat in just 5 months but I am going to try anyways.
I cannot possibly accomplish this goal of mine by only interacting within my work environment. Hence, I took off on my own with cash in my pocket, a cell phone for emergencies and a change of clothes for a weekend in Tsumeb, a more happening town 60 km from Grootfontein where I live and work. My trip got off to a great start as I met one cool taxi driver; the most famous person in Grootfontein according to himself, his name is Fish. He drives a stylish silver 2006 Volkswagen with a pretty mean sound system. The base was so loud I thought I was going to skip a heartbeat. For some reason Fish never thought about turning down the volume during our long conversation; we yelled over the beat the whole way down to Tsumeb. For a split second I forgot that I was in Namibia because Fish played the latest tunes any young person my age in North America would listen to in their car; from Kanye West, Akon and Lil’ Wayne to Alicia Keys, Rihanna, Chris Brown and Coldplay. He had it all, even songs I had never heard before, talk about American soft power.
His car was bought in the UK by an English lady who used to live in Grootfontein and recently moved back to London with her Namibian husband. She provides him with a cell phone and trusts him to run the business for her locally and deposit the earnings into her bank account at the end of each month. As he puts it, “that lady is very cool to me, she trusts me a lot, and she knows I won’t run away with the car and the money. She wants to bring me to England one day.” Indeed, it is a challenge to find trustworthy business partners in Africa due to poverty.
At least this type of business thrives in Namibia because the State saw to it that the construction of basic infrastructure is conducive to trade and commerce. The road network in Namibia is among the best on the Motherland behind the Republic of South Africa (RSA) and on par with Western Africa with examples such as Ghana, Ivory Coast and recently Senegal. You can reach the most remote rural towns on fully paved roads within reasonable time. That is unheard of and unseen in most parts of Africa, namely in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) where the colonial infrastructure has been left untouched since 1960. Visiting Kinshasa, DRC’s capital, 6 months ago and now living in the small farming town of Grootfontein, Namibia 400 km from Windhoek is two completely different experiences: night and day.
Yes, different cultures, different history, different colonial experiences but the facts remain. One has 48 years of independence and the other has only 18. In Kinshasa, I stayed in a so-called affluent neighborhood yet I went 3 days straight in the dark without power and during my 2-week stay I showered with tap water only once. The rest of the time, water was fetched for me from God knows where in two buckets that I used to shower because tap water was cut off. Why? You ask. My dear friends, there are questions Congolese people do not bother asking anymore. And did I mention Kinshasa is the capital city??? In Grootfontein, I have yet to witness a power outage. I shower everyday with water coming out of the silver shower head and not from a bucket. Oh and get this, I even have hot water especially now that it is winter in Southern Africa. I can get on the internet any day whenever I please and the connection is fairly fast too.
Basically, my friend summed it up best: “Namibia is Africa for beginners.” And while some might respond by saying it is not Africa at all because it is not scary, violent and overpopulated like Lagos, Kinshasa, or Nairobi – as if these are attributes and a reputation to be self-righteous about – to those shallow, ignorant cynics I say yes, I agree, Namibia is not “true” Africa but it is everything Africa should be and more.
I almost forgot to mention that I was not the only customer in the taxi. I was one of five. I was sitting in front with Fish (the privileges you get for having long legs) and there were 2 women at the back and a young teenager with his 2-year old nephew on his laps. None of the passengers knew each other nor did we get off at the same stop in Tsumeb. Our kind driver took turns dropping each of us where we needed to go. The fare for each passenger was N$ 30. I took Fish’s cell phone number and made an appointment for pick-up the following day to return home in Grootfontein. I paid another N$ 30. In total, I only spent N$ 60 (Namibian dollars) for a 60 km drive there and back with great conversation and a fun weekend. That comes to just under US$ 10 for my roundtrip fare since US$ 1 = N$ 7.6. Pretty good deal I must say.
By the time I made it back home Fish and I were buddies. He told me all about how his girlfriend who works in the Big City (Windhoek) dumped him for no apparent reason. Although he suspects that there is another man with more money entertaining her. He claims that it is a trend with a Namibian girls and money nowadays. I told him that I find it is common everywhere else in the world (not always but we do see it in all societies, please do not crucify me on this one) for a female to make such tough choices when stuck in a financial bind with no way out. But Fish was not having it. He is convinced that it is purely a Namibian thing. He then announced to me that he is done being Mr. Nice Guy and will now sleep with many and leave them all. I again tried to convince him otherwise but he was not having that either. As we shook hands and said our goodbyes, Fish invited me to join him and his friends next weekend for a night out in the locations, where “the real people live”, as he puts it.
Stay tuned…
At least this type of business thrives in Namibia because the State saw to it that the construction of basic infrastructure is conducive to trade and commerce. The road network in Namibia is among the best on the Motherland behind the Republic of South Africa (RSA) and on par with Western Africa with examples such as Ghana, Ivory Coast and recently Senegal. You can reach the most remote rural towns on fully paved roads within reasonable time. That is unheard of and unseen in most parts of Africa, namely in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) where the colonial infrastructure has been left untouched since 1960. Visiting Kinshasa, DRC’s capital, 6 months ago and now living in the small farming town of Grootfontein, Namibia 400 km from Windhoek is two completely different experiences: night and day.
Yes, different cultures, different history, different colonial experiences but the facts remain. One has 48 years of independence and the other has only 18. In Kinshasa, I stayed in a so-called affluent neighborhood yet I went 3 days straight in the dark without power and during my 2-week stay I showered with tap water only once. The rest of the time, water was fetched for me from God knows where in two buckets that I used to shower because tap water was cut off. Why? You ask. My dear friends, there are questions Congolese people do not bother asking anymore. And did I mention Kinshasa is the capital city??? In Grootfontein, I have yet to witness a power outage. I shower everyday with water coming out of the silver shower head and not from a bucket. Oh and get this, I even have hot water especially now that it is winter in Southern Africa. I can get on the internet any day whenever I please and the connection is fairly fast too.
Basically, my friend summed it up best: “Namibia is Africa for beginners.” And while some might respond by saying it is not Africa at all because it is not scary, violent and overpopulated like Lagos, Kinshasa, or Nairobi – as if these are attributes and a reputation to be self-righteous about – to those shallow, ignorant cynics I say yes, I agree, Namibia is not “true” Africa but it is everything Africa should be and more.
I almost forgot to mention that I was not the only customer in the taxi. I was one of five. I was sitting in front with Fish (the privileges you get for having long legs) and there were 2 women at the back and a young teenager with his 2-year old nephew on his laps. None of the passengers knew each other nor did we get off at the same stop in Tsumeb. Our kind driver took turns dropping each of us where we needed to go. The fare for each passenger was N$ 30. I took Fish’s cell phone number and made an appointment for pick-up the following day to return home in Grootfontein. I paid another N$ 30. In total, I only spent N$ 60 (Namibian dollars) for a 60 km drive there and back with great conversation and a fun weekend. That comes to just under US$ 10 for my roundtrip fare since US$ 1 = N$ 7.6. Pretty good deal I must say.
By the time I made it back home Fish and I were buddies. He told me all about how his girlfriend who works in the Big City (Windhoek) dumped him for no apparent reason. Although he suspects that there is another man with more money entertaining her. He claims that it is a trend with a Namibian girls and money nowadays. I told him that I find it is common everywhere else in the world (not always but we do see it in all societies, please do not crucify me on this one) for a female to make such tough choices when stuck in a financial bind with no way out. But Fish was not having it. He is convinced that it is purely a Namibian thing. He then announced to me that he is done being Mr. Nice Guy and will now sleep with many and leave them all. I again tried to convince him otherwise but he was not having that either. As we shook hands and said our goodbyes, Fish invited me to join him and his friends next weekend for a night out in the locations, where “the real people live”, as he puts it.
Stay tuned…
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